Sure its touristy, but the stories being retold in the main square are for that locals, the markets are where the locals shop; you just feel like a guest. The window into the desolate little town of Kars is one that very best left not open. https://socialmediainuk.com/story18971627/daha-fazlas%C4%B1n%C4%B1-ke%C5%9Ffedin